How to Print ABS and ASA on Bambu Lab Printers

ABS and ASA are the go-to materials for functional parts that need heat resistance, UV stability, and real mechanical strength. But they’re the materials most people fail at — warping, layer splitting, and the infamous fumes.

I print ABS and ASA weekly on my X1C and P1S. Here’s how to do it without the drama.

ABS vs ASA: Which One?

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene):

The classic engineering filament
Heat resistant to ~100°C
Strong, machinable, sandable, acetone-smoothable
Warps aggressively without enclosure
Produces styrene fumes (ventilation recommended)
Cheaper: $15-20/kg

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate):

ABS’s outdoor cousin
UV resistant — won’t yellow or degrade in sunlight
Same heat resistance (~100°C)
Less warping than ABS (but still needs enclosure)
Same fumes concern
Slightly more expensive: $18-25/kg

Bottom line: Use ASA for anything going outdoors. Use ABS for everything else. Their print settings are nearly identical.

Recommended brands:

Bambu Lab ABS — pre-tuned profiles, reliable
eSUN ABS+ — less warping than standard ABS, budget-friendly
Polymaker ASA — excellent UV resistance, good color range
Bambu Lab ASA — guaranteed compatibility, pre-tuned

Printer Requirements: Which Bambu Lab Printers Can Handle It?

X1C and X1E — Best for ABS/ASA ✅

Fully enclosed with active chamber heating
Reaches 55-60°C chamber temp
HEPA + carbon filter included
This is what these printers were designed for

P1S — Good for ABS/ASA ✅

Enclosed but no active heating (ambient heat builds to 40-45°C)
Adequate for most ABS/ASA prints
Add-on HEPA/carbon filter available
Upgrade: add insulation panels for better heat retention

P2S — Same as P1S ✅

Enclosed, passive heating
Works well for ABS/ASA with proper settings

A1 and A1 Mini — Not Recommended ❌

Open frame = no chamber heat
ABS will warp badly on anything larger than 40mm
Small ABS parts might work with a DIY enclosure, but it’s fighting the design
Use PETG instead on these printers

Print Settings

Temperature

ABS:

Nozzle: 250-260°C (Bambu ABS profile: 255°C)
Bed: 100-110°C (105°C works well)
Chamber: 50-60°C (X1C with heating), 40-45°C (P1S passive)

ASA:

Nozzle: 250-265°C (slightly higher than ABS)
Bed: 100-110°C
Chamber: 50-60°C

Speed

ABS/ASA print well at moderate to high speeds:

Outer wall: 80-120mm/s
Inner wall: 120-180mm/s
Infill: 200-250mm/s
First layer: 30-50mm/s (slower for adhesion)

Don’t go Ludicrous mode — the thermal stress from fast movements in a hot chamber can cause layer splitting.

Cooling

This is critical and counterintuitive:

Part cooling fan: LOW. 20-40% for most of the print. ABS/ASA need to stay warm for layer adhesion.
First layer fan: 0%. Zero. Not negotiable.
Bridges and overhangs: 60-80%. Brief burst of cooling for structural support.
Auxiliary fan (X1C): OFF during ABS/ASA printing. You want the chamber hot.

Too much cooling = layer splitting, warping, and delamination. The #1 mistake people make with ABS is cooling it like PLA.

Bed Adhesion

ABS sticks to:

Smooth PEI: Good adhesion at 105°C+
Textured PEI with glue stick: Best combination. Glue helps adhesion and release.
Garolite (G10): Excellent for ABS. Bonds when hot, releases when cool.

Always use a brim with ABS. 5-8mm outer brim prevents corner lifting on 95% of parts. It’s faster than reprinting a warped part.

Glue stick application: Thin, even layer on a cold plate. Elmer’s Purple Glue Stick — cheap and effective.

Enclosure Management

X1C with active heating:

Set chamber target to 55°C (Bambu Studio > Printer Settings > Chamber Temperature)
Close the door and top lid
Don’t open during printing — temperature drops cause warping
Pre-heat the chamber for 10-15 minutes before starting

P1S without active heating:

Close the enclosure completely
Print a dummy object first to build chamber heat
Or: run the bed at 110°C for 10 minutes before starting
Add insulation panels to the top and sides for better heat retention

Ventilation and Fumes

ABS and ASA produce styrene fumes. They’re not acutely dangerous in a ventilated room, but long-term exposure is a concern. Handle this:

Best Solution: HEPA + Carbon Filter (X1C Built-In)

The X1C comes with a HEPA filter and activated carbon filter that handles most fumes. Replace the carbon filter every 3-6 months if you print ABS regularly.

For P1S/P2S: Add-On Filter

The Bambu Lab HEPA Filter Kit fits the P1S/P2S and provides similar filtration.

Budget Solution: Vent to Window

Run a dryer vent hose from the enclosure exhaust to a window. Not elegant but effective.

Minimum: Run in a Ventilated Room

Don’t print ABS in a sealed bedroom. Open a window or run the printer in a garage/workshop.

Common ABS/ASA Problems

Warping (Corners Lifting)

Cause: Temperature differential between bottom and top of print Fix:

Increase bed temp to 110°C
Increase chamber temp (close enclosure, don’t open during print)
Add 8mm brim
Glue stick on build plate
Reduce infill (less internal stress)
Slow first layer to 30mm/s
Don’t print near the door seal (cooler area)

Layer Splitting / Delamination

Cause: Too much cooling, or chamber not warm enough Fix:

Reduce part cooling fan to 20% or less
Increase nozzle temperature by 5°C
Close enclosure completely — no gaps
Check for drafts (door seal, gaps in lid)

Elephant’s Foot (First Layer Too Wide)

Cause: Bed too hot + nozzle too close Fix:

Raise Z offset slightly (+0.02mm)
Reduce bed temp by 5°C for first layer only
Enable elephant’s foot compensation in Bambu Studio (Print Settings > Quality)

Stringing

Cause: ABS doesn’t string as much as PETG, but can at high temps Fix:

Drop nozzle temp by 5°C
Standard retraction (0.8mm at 30mm/s)
Z hop enabled

Surface Bubbles / Rough Texture

Cause: Wet filament Fix: Dry your ABS at 80°C for 4-6 hours. ABS absorbs moisture, and wet ABS produces a rough, bubbly surface. Use a filament dryer.

Acetone Smoothing (ABS Only)

ABS dissolves in acetone, which means you can smooth layer lines to a near-injection-molded finish:

Get pure acetone
Pour a small amount into a glass container (NOT plastic)
Place your ABS part on a raised platform inside the container
Cover loosely (not airtight)
Wait 30-60 minutes — acetone vapor smooths the surface
Remove and let it cure for 24 hours

Warning: Acetone is highly flammable. Do this in a ventilated area away from heat sources. Wear gloves.

Note: ASA does NOT smooth with acetone. If you need post-processing, use ABS.

My ABS/ASA Production Settings

For functional drone parts on the X1C:

Material: eSUN ABS+ (black)
Nozzle: 255°C
Bed: 105°C on textured PEI + glue stick
Chamber: 55°C (active heating)
Speed: Standard profile (100mm/s outer wall)
Fan: 25% part cooling, 0% first layer
Walls: 3 (functional strength)
Infill: 25% grid
Brim: 6mm, outer only
Retraction: 0.8mm at 30mm/s

These settings give me consistent, warp-free parts across multiple prints. ABS+ specifically (eSUN brand) warps less than standard ABS — worth the slightly higher price.

More material guides: PETG Guide, TPU Guide, Best Filament for Bambu Lab. Need the full enclosure deep-dive? Read our Enclosure Guide.